Thursday, January 7, 2010

Gringa in the Manger

Disclaimer: I actually wrote this blog entry a month ago, but circumstances (i.e. travel, an Internet connection that makes AOL circa 1996 dial-up look like high-speed DSL, etc.) have kept me from posting it. The result is a series of stories relating to events that seem completely irrelevant now that it is nearly February. My sincerest apologies!

Feliz Navidad y Prospero Año Nuevo a todos! If you can’t understand that, you haven’t listened to the Jose Feliciano masterpiece, “Feliz Navidad” nearly enough. I, on the other hand, listened to it approximately 672 times this past season. I thought I could escape it in Peru… and I nearly did. But alas, my English class implored that I teach them the entire song. Against my better judgment, I agreed. I thought those two (I repeat: TWO) lines in English would be a cinch to teach and learn. False! I’ll let you guess how long it actually took, as I’m tired of dwelling on it. In fact, I had better change the subject before that pesky song creeps its way back into my head. But it is an excellent segue into what I DO want to dwell on: Peru has just finished celebrating the holidays and it took Kim along for the ride. I’m sure you can all guess that this will involve dancing… and drinking. Which it of course does. No surprise there. There are, however, a few more unexpected traditions that have seeped into the drink/dance/drink/dance routine of the typical Peruvian celebration. So here’s a breakdown of how this little gringa spent her holiday season:

The phrase “Jesus is the reason for the season,” is not just a sweatshirt logo around these parts. Oh no… it is all about Baby Jesus. Around the first of December people begin constructing their nativity scenes. You will see one in every household, park, town square, bank, municipality building, and so on and so on. So sorry people of differing faiths; no such thing as separation of Church and State for us! I thoroughly enjoy this tradition, as people get quite creative with their nativity scenes… especially when it comes to which creatures were actually present during the birth of Jesus. My favorite attendees that I’ve seen include: Darth Vader, Michael Jackson, and a saxophone-wielding California raisin. Not sure how they got left out of Saint Luke’s version of the story.

The Nativity Scene in my house, post Baby Jesus's arrival


In addition to the nativity scenes popping up like weeds, another sudden appearance lets you know that Christmas has arrived. One word, three syllables: Panetone. Panetone is the Peruvian version of fruitcake, but it is oh-so-much-more. It is pure deliciousness spun into a cake-like form. I believe I ate my personal mass in panetone throughout the month of December. Peruvians hold events called “Chocolatadas,” where they give out panetone and hot chocolate to the poor. I helped plan and run no less than 15 of these events. While I certainly enjoy helping the poor just as much as the average Peace Corps Volunteer, I secretly loved helping with the Chocolatadas because there was always some panetone left over at the end of the day. Don’t judge. Fortunately for me, this sweet loaf of delight plays a part in most every holiday season event here in Peru. Speaking of, let me continue on with the festivities.




Host-Mom handing out delicious panetone to a group of disabled people in San Miguel at one of many Chocolatadas


December 24th: In Peru, Christmas Eve is called Noche Buena and is an even bigger deal than Christmas Day itself. From what I was told, everybody goes to Mass at 10:00 pm, followed by a solemn dinner with family, and then a champagne toast as Baby Jesus is placed in his manger at the stroke of midnight. I’m sure that many people do this, but my family started the party a little too early that day (3 pm) and missed Mass. Oops! We did manage to take a break from the dancing to count down to midnight, ceremonially place Baby Jesus in his manger (Grandma and I each held an arm), and open gifts. That all took approximately 10 minutes, after which we returned to the huayno and cañazo. Priorities!




My little bro unwrapping gifts




I believe Uncle Tio liked the gifts more than the kids did.

December 25th: Host-Mom must have felt guilty about boozing through Mass the night before, so she rounded us all up early the next morning to attend the Christmas Day service. I cannot be sure if they were there for the same reason, but the church was packed. Padre Juan gave a riveting sermon (I can now understand about 2/3 of what he says), and we then watched as he took Baby Jesus out of his manger and walked him out of the church and into the plaza. What followed next was no surprise... I now feel like an old veteran of the San Miguel fiesta. Cue the marching band. Cue the little kids dressed in crazy costumes. Cue the procession around the plaza. The only difference was that this time we took little Baby Jesus for a stroll around the plaza instead of a portrait or statue. And also what came next. After the mini-parade, we all returned to the church. Some talking ensued, and I began to hear my name being tossed about. Before I knew what was happening, I was being ushered to the front, and coerced into climbing into the nativity scene. Once there, I was instructed to cradle Baby Jesus while the entire congregation took pictures of us. Who knows, this could be a completely normal tradition, but I’m slightly suspicious that my townsfolk just thought it would be a hilarious sight to see. Well, you’re welcome San Miguel… and Merry Christmas!



Padre Juan, removing Baby Jesus from his manager


Here we are, just taking Baby Jesus for a morning stroll

I don't look awkward and/or uncomfortable at all, do I?


The only thing weirder than the gringa craddling Baby Jesus? This lady here, who asked that she place her live baby in the manager along with Baby Jesus.


Children's Pageant on Christmas Day... this picture is only notable because of the creepy Santa Claus lurking in the back.



December 31st: The Peruvian New Year’s Eve celebration is more or less identical to its American counterpart. There are fireworks, there’s a countdown and there are a lot of screaming people at midnight. There are even cheap plastic glasses with the New Year formed into lenses. Peru does , however, have two noteworthy customs that give it a leg up on us. #1: Everybody must wear yellow underwear. Don’t ask me why. Something to do with luck. But who cares really, it’s just fun to wear them and know that others are as well. #2: You must make a doll of yourself and burn it. They say it symbolizes ridding yourself of all the evils from the past year. The doll is supposed to really look like you, which means that this tradition is an awful lot like the practice of voodoo. Again, I try not to ask too many questions.


Rocking my yellow shades... among other things.

In retrospect, I’m glad I was able to see all of the holiday customs here and participate in a few of them. That being said, 2009 was without a doubt my last Christmas in Peru. Don’t get me wrong, I certainly enjoyed the Chocolatadas and marching bands, but Christmas is about family. Real family. So next year this gringa will be celebrating South Carolina style: with a tree, stockings and 24-hours of “A Christmas Story” on TBS… though I might just bring some panetone along with me.


Happy Holidays from our family to yours!!!