Tuesday, September 21, 2010

The Parents' Perspective

After managing to survive their trip down south, I invited my parents to write a guest blog about their experiences and impressions. I was a bit nervous about what I would get back, fearing that they would tear my poor host-home to bits. For better or for worse, Peru is my home, my country, my people. And nobody bashes my people but me.

The overall review was not nearly as bad as I expected. I was pleased to read that my parents did appreciate some of the wonders found here, but I guess it takes time to see it all with the rose-colored glasses that I now wear after fifteen months. Sometimes I forget that Peru, in spite of the trash and because of the funny transportation situations, is an acquired taste. I find it perfectly palatable, but others may find it a bit fishy. It was odd to see Peru through fresh eyes, but in the end I enjoyed seeing the perspective. I hope you all do as well:

My husband, Ric, and I were fortunate enough to travel to Peru to visit our Peace Corps Volunteer daughter, Kimberly. I’ve never been to a third world country, so it was quite an eye opener. Kim had warned us that visiting Peru is NOT like a trip to Spain, and she was right in that respect. If you require luxury, I would suggest limiting your visit to Lima – but then you would miss out on some awesome sights. After 24 hours of travelling (actually most of this time was spent sitting in airports), we arrived in the ancient Incan capital of Cusco, gateway to Machu Picchu. We were met at the airport by our guide, German (pronounced Her-mon’), with whom Kimberly thoughtfully charged with our safety. He instructed us on what to do and not to do in this cobblestoned city set at a lofty 12,000 feet above sea level: Take it easy for a day or two, stay hydrated and eat lightly. We heeded his advice and enjoyed strolling the narrow streets, visiting sixteenth century cathedrals and Incan ruins, browsing in shops and watching beautiful dark -eyed children in colorful costumes in the beautiful Plaza de Armas, which in Inca times was the heart of the capital. My personal favorites were the little girls with baby alpacas or llamas who requested that we take our picture with them (for a small fee). Our hotel, Casa de San Blas, was quaint, rustic and very clean.


Mom with her three favorite things: German, an alpaca and a tourist-trap

Two days later we were on our way to Machu Picchu. From Cusco we took a 4 hour train ride and then a 30 minute bus ride to the site. We took the easy route. Kim and her friends hiked for 4 days on the Inca Trail, through rain, hail and snow to reach the summit above Machu Picchu at sunrise. Unfortunately, it was cloudy, so they didn’t actually see the sun come up. They slept in tents at night and were always wet and cold. When we finally met them, they looked so bedraggled! My motherly instincts made me want to give them all a bath and some cocoa. But after a hot meal, they were off and running again, describing the beauty they experienced on the Inca trail. Ric and I had a 2 ½ hour tour of the ruins with a very knowledgeable guide, Pasqual. No picture or documentary can do justice to this site. It truly is one of the wonders of the world. I’m grateful that this was one place the Spaniards did not venture, as they had the habit of tearing down Inca temples and erecting churches. They were not nearly as skilled in the art of building as the Incas, who were truly master builders. I cannot begin to comprehend how they cut blocks of solid granite with such precise angles and used no mortar. Their buildings were virtually earthquake proof, while the Spanish buildings were not. The systems of terraces, aqueducts and fountains, drainage, etc. are amazing. But what makes this place truly remarkable is its setting in the most beautiful mountains and rainforest I have ever seen. It is literally in the clouds. One moment you can’t see anything and then the clouds recede to reveal spectacular views.


The "bedraggled" travelers in need of a bath

Stones of Machu Picchu


Mountainous view behind Machu Picchu city



Post-bath, overlooking city of Cusco

We said goodbye to Cusco and flew back to Lima, a beautiful city with mountains sliding into the Pacific Ocean. It felt great to be back at sea level! We stayed in Miraflores, a lovely section of the city, dotted with parks (one was dedicated to John F. Kennedy), cafes and shops. From Lima, we headed by bus down the coast to the desert town of Huacachina. It is an oasis surrounded by towering sand dunes and is a favorite with young people who love to go sandboarding down the dunes. We all strapped ourselves into dune buggies which raced up and down the dunes, stopping occasionally for Ric and the kids to try out their sandboarding skills. I was the holder of the cameras. The outing ended with a Kodak moment as we watched the sun setting behind the sand dunes.




Miraflores, overlooking the Pacific Ocean


Riding the dunes in Huacachina


Kodak moment


Enjoying a break between buggie-riding



Next we traveled to Pisco where we boarded a boat to visit the Islas Ballestas, or ‘poor man’s Galapagos.’ Along the way, we saw the famous three-pronged Candelabra geoglyph, a giant figure etched into the sandy hills, something like the Nazca Lines. We spent an hour cruising around the islands’ arches and caves, watching sea lions, penguins and thousands of sea birds, such as the Peruvian booby. All too soon, the trip was over, and we were on our way back to Lima.


Sea-lion sunbathing

As we said goodbye to all the Volunteers and their friends, I felt such a sense of gratitude for the dedication and skills these young people exhibited. Peru may have many beautiful and interesting destinations, but it is definitely not for the faint of heart. I found the images of squalor, endless piles of litter and stray dogs quite disturbing. Many Volunteers live without complaining in adobe huts without electricity. They are definitely helping to improve the quality of life for countless people through education, fundraising and better business techniques. I personally will probably not be invited back to Peru because I could not always remember to place the toilet tissue in the trash can, not flush it down the toilet. In fact, I have a feeling the whole country’s sewer system will never be the same!